ONE ROOM CHALLENGE- WEEK 5

ONE ROOM CHALLENGE- WEEK 5

OVERSIZED DIY PEG BOARD

One of our main issues in our laundry room was the lack of storage/use of space. We started using it as a catch all especially the hook rack…between the keys, mask, jackets, leashes, etc our small little set of hooks were a cluttered mess. 

We still wanted to have a place to hang certain items but be more updated and practical. I decided a giant peg board would be such a fun project and totally give us what we needed. Also, have you seen how much these cost to buy? Holy smokes I was not about to spend that kind of money so DIY it was. I loved that I could add as many pegs as I wanted, we could do some shelves for decor, and it would be a unique feature to our laundry room. Plus the natural wood accent would be a great addition (of course you can paint them as well).

We have one more week of the One Room Challenge but they have extended it an extra week due to give us some time to finish up any projects. I’m hoping to still finish up by the original deadline though.

When you finish up here be sure to check out the featured designers and guest participants of the #oneroomchallenge. So many incredible rooms coming together week by week.

week 1 / week 2 / week 3 / week 4 / / week 6 – reveal 

BUILDING YOUR OVERSIZED WOODEN PEG BOARD 

THINGS YOU WILL NEED:

-1/2 x 2 x 4 Sande Plywood Board
-3/4″ Dowels
-Pencil
1 x 2 x 8 Board (for hanging)

TOOLS FOR THE PROJECT: 

Miter Saw OR Miter Trim Cutters
-Utility Square
Drill
-Tape Measure
-3/4″ Forstner Bit (or whatever size you want dowels to be)
Drill Guide
Mouse Sander or Sand Paper
-Stud Finder/Anchors (for hanging)

LET’S BUILD:

Step 1: Determine Spacing 

First you’ll want to mark where you want the holes. To do this you’ll need to determine the spacing that you prefer. Based on my board size I wanted at least 6 holes across, so I chose to do 3” apart with 2.5” from each edge. I then decided I wanted approx 12 holes going down and divided my length by 12 and came up with 4 inches between each one. 

Step 2: Marking the Holes 

I literally couldn’t find a single pencil in my entire house so eventually settled on colored pencils to draw out where I wanted the holes placed. Making a grid was easiest for me, of course you could always mark the exact spot you want the hole and leave it at that. Make sure whatever side you want to be the “pretty side” is the one where you make the marks for the holes (I’ll explain in step 3 why this is important). I wanted to make sure my holes were aligned both vertical and horizontal so creating a grid worked best for me. To do that I made tiny dashes vertically and horizontal for 3 inches across and 4 inches down. Using my utility square (L-Ruler) I aligned one side of the utility square to the edge of the board and the other to my dashes and drew a line. This made for perfectly straight lines. I did this all the way across the board until all lines were made. 

Step 3: Drilling the Holes

Begin drilling your holes using your forstner drill bit. Here are some tips to get the best outcome: The side of the board that you want to be the “pretty side” will be the side you’ll want to start drilling from as it creates the cleanest circle. The back of the board will have punch out where the board chips slightly. Placing another piece of wood behind your board while drilling will save your drill bit from any damage and also reduce the punch out. It won’t prevent it entirely but it will help . I also highly suggest a drill guide to ensure perfectly straight holes. We did not use this which caused some of pegs to slant slightly. 

Step 4: Cleaning Up

Once all your holes are drilled you can clean up the board by lightly sanding over the front to remove your grid lines and in the holes to get rid of any left over wood shavings.

Step 5: Making the Pegs

You will then determine the length of dowels you want. This will be based on the width of your board or any shelves that you may want to use. I went with 6 inches (can always change them out for larger if needed), marked my dowels and cut using a miter saw. The amount of dowels is totally up to you and what you want to use your peg board for. I did 8 for each board to start with which ended up using 2-4ft dowels.

INSTALLING YOUR OVERSIZED PEG BAORD

I have not hung the boards up yet, but I will update as soon as I have done so. 

This is such a simple project with very little materials needed. I LOVE how they turned out and can’t wait to add decor to finish up this project. 

If you do your own DIY peg boards I would love to see them be sure to tag @homewithtdg. Thanks for following along. 

Xoxo, Taylor G 

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